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Serving
all of Metro Atlanta
678.318.3624
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Plumbing Services.
[Tubs & Showers] [Faucets]
[Toilets] [Valves]
[Copper Pipe Repair] [Slab
Leaks]
Tubs
and Showers
When it comes time to remodel your current bathroom,
or you simply want an updated look, tub and shower
replacement are a great way to modernize your bathroom's
appeal and function. From basic white, one-piece
fiberglass units to contemporary cast-iron claw
foots, multi-piece arrangements or complete tile
walls, tub and shower replacements are an easy way
to change the look of your bathroom while opening
up the door to many custom and unique options along
the way. |
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Many options are available when
replacing a tub assembly. If the tub is a tub/shower combo
as in many homes, it has three walls and an entrance,
and is normally made of fiberglass. Sometimes one piece,
sometimes multi-piece, this assembly can be purchased
in many colors with hundreds of wall designs and unique
etched patterns. Replacement is basically straight-forward,
with the demo/removal of the old tub combo the largest
portion of the job. Installation of the new assembly involves
hooking up the drainage and tub/shower valve, then sealing
everything.
Stand-alone claw-foot tubs are an older design that has
recently regained popularity. Elegant and contemporary
in appearance, claw foot tubs sit on the floor away from
any surrounding walls, with the drain stubbed up from
the floor directly behind it. The tub/shower valve resembles
a faucet, and is attached to the edge of the tub on a
designated end. Claw-foot tubs range higher in price due
to their design and construction, and are significantly
heavier that standard fiberglass units. Installation is,
once again, fairly simple, just setting the tub in place
and connecting drainage and water supplies.
Replacing a shower involves a few more decisions. Showers
are typically of the fiberglass type as well, while some
are complete tile assemblies with a shower pan underneath
(see "Shower Pans" section). Replacing a fiberglass
assembly with another unit of the same style and size
is relatively easy, and the most common type of replacement.
The shower valve and drainage are disconnected, and the
old shower assembly is pulled out. The new shower is then
installed, connecting everything back up and sealing all
the edges. Removal of sheetrock or wall material is usually
necessary to accommodate the complete installations, as
access to the shower valve is necessary. Replacing a tile
shower is much more involved, and as such is more expensive.
Removal of all the tile work is the first step. This alone
is tedious work and can take some time. Disconnecting
the drainage and shower valve is necessary. The shower
pan is now accessible. If replacement of the shower pan
is needed (older pans were made of lead, and often leaked),
now is the time to perform that job. Once all prep work
has been completed, including valve replacement, drain
work, and if necessary, the shower pan, a tile man can
now come and reinstall all of the tiling, with thousands
of colors and design options. Plumbers DO NOT perform
this task. Once all the tile has been replaced, a plumber
can come back and "trim out" the shower, installing
the shower arm, handle, and trim plate.
Faucets
All sinks in your home have some sort of faucet
attached. Single handle or two handle, faucets are
the outlets of fresh water inside the house. They
come in hundreds of different styles, finishes,
sizes, and shapes. Your kitchens, bathroom sink
(lavatories), and utility sinks all require a faucet
for operation, and we service and install them ALL.
Homeowners replace faucets for all sorts of reasons.
Sometimes faucets begin to drip after many years.
Some corrode and rust. Some crack or break. Other
times homeowners become tired of their current faucets
and want to update the look of their kitchens and |
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bathrooms. In 99% of new faucet
installations, we recommend that you go out and purchase
the faucet of your choice. This is because there are SO
MANY different styles of faucets on the market that if
we were to simply pick one up for you, the odds of us
getting the one you want are slim to none. Buying one
yourself guarantees that you will get exactly what you
are looking for, and seeing as how our prices rarely change
due to the model or brand, your installation fees remain
consistent. Fees only differ for lavatory and kitchen
faucets. During the installation process, we will remove
and dispose of your old faucet, and install your new unit,
ensuring that everything functions properly before we
leave. Labor warranty is our standard 12-month, with the
faucet's warranty depending on the manufacturer.
Not all faucet problems require complete replacement of
the entire assembly. In many instances we can make small
repairs to the faucet's internal components to stop leaks
or other problems. The replacement of small parts such
as washers, springs, and cartridges can be a less expensive
alternative to complete faucet replacement, sometimes
halving the total cost to you. Often times simply repairing
the existing faucet will give you many more years of reliable
service without incident. No matter what make or model,
style or finish, we service all faucets and can find almost
any part required to complete the job. As always, all
faucet repairs carry our 12-month warranty. Faucet replacements
carry this, as well as the manufacturer's warranty on
the faucet itself (usually 10 years or lifetime).
Toilets
Ever woken up in the middle of the night to the
sound of a running toilet? Stumbling your way through
the dark to jiggle the handle has never been a fun
proposition, however, almost every toilet will,
at some point, begin to run, leak, or make odd noises.
This is simply the nature of the parts inside a
toilet's tank that comprise the flushing system.
With a combination of brass, rubber, plastic, and
other materials, there are multiple points for possible
failure. Leaks from rusty tank bolts or cracked
fill valve shanks are common as well. Fill valves
begin to wear out and allow excess water to enter
the tank, flappers become warped and allow water
to run into the bowl, and even the toilet's flush
handle can rust. We will resolve each and every
one of these |
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issues for you quickly and professionally,
giving your toilets several more years of reliable, trouble-free
usage.
When toilets reach a certain age, it is often best to
simply replace the entire toilet itself rather than bother
with smaller, detailed repairs. If your toilets are reaching
25-30 years of age, the flush pathways inside them are
growing narrower and narrower with a build-up of calcium
and lime, increasing the probabilities of clogs. There
is no repair for this. In such cases, or if you simply
want to update the look of your bathrooms with newer and
higher quality equipment, it's time to replace your toilets.
With literally thousands of different models and styles
out there, there is guaranteed to be something out there
for everyone. Prices for new toilets can range anywhere
from $100 all the way up to and exceeding $3500, showcasing
every possible feature you could think of. Though rare
on lower priced models, features such as automatic flushing,
heated seats, and LED lighting are available. We recommend
that the homeowner purchase their own toilets and then
have us install them. We suggest this due to the wide
variety of toilet styles, colors, and features. We will
answer any questions you may have along the way in your
search for new toilets, as well as offer advice on brand
selection, feature necessities, and pricing options. Regardless
of which toilets you choose, we install them all, and
we'll even dispose of your old ones for you at no additional
charge.
Misc Valves
The water system in your home is a complex network of
piping and valves. While the piping tends to require little
to no maintenance most of the time, plumbing valves are
a different story. These small valves are located everywhere
from under your sinks to behind your toilets, from your
water heater to your icemaker, from your dishwasher to
your clothes washer. Also known as cut-offs, stops, or
shut-offs, these valves all perform the same function:
stopping the supply of water to a certain fixture or area
of the home. There is a large valve one on your main water
line close to where it enters the home, next to your PRV
(see" Pressure Valves" section), allowing you
or your plumber to shut off the water to your entire home,
allowing maintenance of the system. While all performing
the same function, these valves are constructed in several
ways and are used in specific locations throughout the
house.
"Stops" is the name generally given to the valves
located under sinks and behind toilets. These small, usually
brass valves are used to cut off the supply of water to
one fixture. They function on a simple shaft and rubber
washer system, and often fail after repeated use. Small,
slow drips are usually the first sign of an impending
problem, and the valve should be immediately replaced.
Gate valves and ball valves are heavier-duty units used
to isolate water at specified points of your plumbing
system. They are in-line valves, meaning they are installed
between two points of a waterline. Gate valves are usually
made of brass, and employ a multi-turn handle to open
or close a thick brass "gate" inside the valve
body, thereby cutting off the supply of water. These valves
are often found on water mains, above water heaters, and
on various lines throughout the home. Ball valves are
also generally made of brass, and are operated using a
lever-type handle that swivels a core-less brass "ball"
inside the valve body. Because of this design, ball valves
require only 90 degrees of rotation to operate, rather
than the multi-turn gate valves. While both types of valves
function well, gate valves are more prone to failure after
many years due to their construction, which employs a
threaded brass rod to operate the gate. These rods often
corrode and break, rendering the valve useless.
Another type of in-line valve found in some homes (and
on most water meters) is called a check valve. This component
of the plumbing system uses a one-way "door"
inside the valve, which allows water to pass through the
valve once, and never flow back through. These valves
are generally used to eliminate the possibility of contaminants
that have entered the water in the home from passing back
out to the county or city lines. Two types of "doors"
are employed in a check valve. The first functions just
like a door in your home, swinging on a hinge inside the
valve, opening and closing with water flow. The other,
known as a spring-check, uses a plate attached to a spring
that opens and closes with pressure, allowing water to
flow around its edges, closing the valve when pressure
is equalized.
Just like any other mechanical item with moving parts,
these valves fail on occasion. Add to that the presence
of water, a highly corrosive (yes, really) liquid, and
you have the recipe for problems. We install and replace
ALL of these valves and more. We will also install additional
valves in areas of your home if you prefer, adding to
the serviceability of your plumbing system, saving you
time and money during future service calls.
Copper
pipe repair
A large percentage of America's homes have interior
copper water piping, servicing all of the home's
plumbing fixtures. Toilets, faucets, water heaters,
hose connections...all are often fed by copper piping.
Copper is an excellent material to have in your
home. It's clean, sturdy, and handles temperature
and pressure changes well. But let's face it, even
the highest quality products fail |
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from time to time. Copper is no
exception. Sometimes, small leaks will form on the joints
connecting the copper piping together, dripping, unbeknownst
to you, inside your walls or into your ceilings. Transition
joints (copper joining plastic pipe) are also common locations
for leaks. These small leaks can cause big problems, damaging
sheetrock, hardwood floors, and carpeting. We will locate
and access these leaks with minimal invasiveness or damage
to walls or flooring, make the necessary repairs, and
thoroughly test the system before we leave.
Copper piping often services the connections to your water
heater. Water heater inlets often leak due to age and
to the corrosion of the galvanized stubs that connect
the water lines to the top of the heater. We will remove
these faulty fittings and replace them with dielectric
(corrosion-eliminating) fittings to remove any chance
of future corrosion.
Copper was once the most popular material for main water
lines, servicing your home from the street. Unfortunately,
copper has weak areas that will often oxidize underground,
causing severe leaks. It is not ALWAYS necessary to replace
the entire waterline when this occurs. As such, we will
dig and expose the leak, make any necessary repairs, cover
everything back up, restore your water service and leave
you with a full warranty. If the leak happens to be located
at the penetration point (where the waterline enters the
home), we can remove the faulty section and replace it,
encasing it within a sleeve to ensure no future corrosion
issues.
Slab
Leaks
Many homes are built without a basement or crawlspace,
instead locating the larger comfort systems (HVAC,
water heaters, etc.) in the attic or utility rooms.
These homes are supplied with water in the same
manner as others, but the waterline penetrates the
home through the slab, or the solid concrete foundation
on which the home is built. The main waterline |
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generally penetrates the slab at
or near the water heater, but branches out underneath
the slab to different parts of the house to feed the home's
plumbing fixtures, jutting up through the slab at each
location and supplying the faucets, toilets, etc. In older
homes, the waterlines were made of gray poly (see "Water
Pipe Repair" section), and were subject to constant
problems. Being buried in the ground under the slab, the
gray poly lines would frequently burst or split due to
contact with rocks, or suffer similar problems due to
temperature changes. But most of all, it was due to gray
poly's inferiority as a product. Copper pipes were also
used under some homes, and were less prone to leaks. Often
times, leaks on copper waterlines under the slab were
attributed to the pipe not being properly wrapped or protected.
Regardless, water leaks under the slab were problems for
obvious reasons, with access to the pipes being impossible
without destroying sections of the home's foundation.
When a slab leak occurs, the most common sign is a dramatic
increase in your monthly water bill. On occasion, if a
hot waterline is the culprit, you will feel a temperature
increase on the floor while walking in bare feet. Whether
the break is on a hot or cold line, leak detection (see
"Water Leak Detection" section) services will
be necessary to determine the exact location of the leak.
We offer this service at a very competitive rate, and
will work the cost into the cost of the repair. Leak detection
requires very specialized equipment designed to pinpoint
water leaks in almost any location within a home. The
equipment is very accurate, usually within inches.
Once the leak has been successfully located, accessing
the leak is the next step. To do this, Any flooring in
the area must be removed, stripping down to the bare concrete
slab. Cutting or jack hammering of the concrete is then
necessary to open a hole around the leak. Even then, the
waterlines are buried to a depth up to 18 inches. After
digging down to the waterlines and clearing away the mud
caused by the leak itself, the repair can be made. After
this is complete, the lines are pressure-tested to ensure
proper operation. The repair is then wrapped, and the
dirt is filled back into the hole. We then re-pour the
concrete that was removed, leveling and smoothing the
surface flush with the surrounding floor. After this new
concrete is allowed to dry, the flooring can be repaired
or replaced as necessary.
At times, drain lines under slab homes suffer breaks as
well. This is often due to faulty initial construction.
The drain lines sometimes separate or crack. The problem
usually presents itself as a clog or slow-draining fixture,
and can only be located with a drain camera. With the
camera, the exact location of the problem can be determined,
and the slab removed as with a waterline leak. The repair
process is similar; fixing the piping, filling the hole,
and concreting back over the spot, smoothing it out again.
Before the concrete is re-poured however, we camera the
newly repaired section once more to ensure that all repairs
were successful. We then test the line with water to check
for leaks. Once everything is covered up, the flooring
may be repaired. |
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Save More Money
Take Advantage of This Special Offer When Fixing Your
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678.318.3624
Send Us Any
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We can usually match or beat any written estimate. Send an estimate from any other plumbing services company and let us see what we can do for you.
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